48 hours in Bruges

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Bruges, I have concluded, is best seen in one day. The morning can be spent getting lost around the narrow streets (a very easy task); lunchtime can provide a respite accompanied by beer, while the afternoon is best spent visiting the churches, walking alongside the canals, or sampling the local taste trinity: waffles, chocolate and more beer.
I did all this and more, since I had 48 hours in Bruges.

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To be fair, this is a pretty town. It is, however, quite lacking in serious cultural entertainment, unless your travel interest include the history of chocolate, fries and beer, as all these have dedicated museums. Much as I enjoy all those food items, however, my interest in them does not go beyond the tasting, so, I didn’t go to visit any of those museums.

I did go to see the churches, though, I simply had to. The Church of Our Lady, for one, is a must on any art lover’s itinerary, as it houses the only statue of Michelangelo in its intended location (i.e., not in a museum) outside of Italy. His Madonna is believed to have been meant for the Sienna Cathedral, but was insteaad bought by two merchants from Bruges and donated to the city in 1504.

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The Bruges Cathedral, on the other hand, called St Salvator’s Church, is not home to world renowned treasures, but has the most impressive stained glass windows’ I’ve ever seen. Unfortunately, both churches are currently undergoing extensive renovation, which dampens the experience a little.

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Other than that, I spent the rest of my time walking the narrow streets and wandering alongside the canals.

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I did like Bruges, overall, but I think its loving nickname, the Venice of the North, is a huge exaggeration! Bruges, to me, is a town to visit after you have run out of other beautiful European towns and cities to visit. As is, indeed, Belgium.
Go in for the beer, enjoy the waffles, buy handmade chocolate and take your photos, by all means. But don’t go to Bruges expecting anything like Venice, or you’ll be rather disappointed.

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For the love of beer

Bruges, like all of Belgium, has an impressive number of beer houses, terraces and shops. Also, the Wall of Beer is a shrine to the product, in manner of Verona’s (fictitious) house of Juliet.
These beers are brewed strong (7-8%) which, judging by the merriment of some tourists, is not always advertised. There is also fruit beer available, kinder on the liver at 2-3% and super-tasty.

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In Bruges…not the movie

I used to be one of those travellers who research the places they are planning to visit, learn about the place and get there knowing quite a bit and certainly knowing what to expect. Sadly, that was before, when I had another job and, in retrospect, far more time for myself.
So, this week-ends’ destination, Bruges, was selected on the basis of some positive reviews from colleagues at work, and the fact that it is a UNESCO heritage site.
I came here by train (the elegant Thalys) in first class with breakfast being served on the way… good sign! I read a bit about the town on the train… mixed reviews. The film, which I’d never seen, apparently portrays Bruges as a sh*^%*le… not good! Oh well, I’ll see for myself!

I got into Bruges around 11, checked into the hotel, dropped my luggage and started into town. The sky was a bit cloudy but not too bad. To walk into town coming from the station I was advised to go through the park. However, I chose to take a street, instead, to get a more immediate feel for the place.
It started innocently enough, with some pretty Inns and B&Bs…and then I turned a corner and I got this Copenhagen feeling!!! And not in a good way. Bruges, it turns out, is an unspoilt medieval town, preserving most of its architecture from its heyday period, the 1500s, when it was a prosperous trading centre. More importantly, though pre-dating the Roman invasion, Bruges established itself in the 9th century, upon the descent of the Vikings.
So, you can understand how joyous my feeling when I realised Bruges is a mini-Copenhagen!!! Same type of red-brick architecture, similar layout of market places and squares, same…air as my beloved Copenhagen.
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Later in the day I had the opportunity to get to the more famous landmarks, the Markt, a beautiful square, the imposing St Salvator Church, the postcard worthy Minnewasser, the so-called Lake of Love.
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Bruges is quite pretty, not at all ‘the epicentre of northern European dullness’, as the Guardian article reviewing the film ‘In Bruges’ described it(filling me with horrified anticipation). I’ll see more tomorrow and I’m sure I won’t be displeased but, nonetheless, I decided today to only take the train south of Paris from now on….At least while I have this job and my acquired Copenhagenphobia!