Peaced out in Verbania

… And a little peaced off, to be honest. Sorry, couldn’t resist the opportunity of clever expletives 🙂
Tomorrow I am leaving Verbania to go to Verona. So tonight, I thought “let me give this town a chance” and set out to explore it on foot, shortly after dinner. Never in my life and my many travels have I come across a more dead Italian town. The streets were deserted!?! A few idle youth, beyond frustrated with their location, I imagine, were feebly attempting the classic passeggiata, but, frankly, when I encountered them again within 10 minutes I turned on my heel and dashed back to my equally happening retirement home :))

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I don’t know what’s happening, but this place really astonishes me. Italy has never before failed to entice me to be alive, to live life, to enjoy life! However, Verbania has a strange deserted feeling that I cannot shake. I walked the shopping streets, the squares, the waterfront and beyond in search of some sign of life, but was met with nothing but emptiness. Is this Italy? Am I in Switzerland already!? And then I remembered how once I had read how even in the Italian speaking part of Switzerland people are a bit reserved, lacking the usual warmth and joy of the Italian spirit. At the time I did not believe it, putting it down to the subjective feeling of a bitter and frustrated expat. Now, however, I am inclined to give credence to that statement and even take it further: I think the Swiss spirit made it over the mountains. The signs were all around me: the ferries did leave on the dot, the cashier shouted to get me back to the window for my change when I mistakenly gave him two 10 Euro notes instead on one, and the bar lady last night gave me credit in the country with no such banking notion. Could it be true? Do the influences on one nation spread over neighbouring regions of one very different nation!?

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I don’t know, and, no, I don’t get that fuzzy feeling from the Swiss, in case you’re still wondering.

All I know is that, when I reached the waterfront tonight, one poor duck, alone in the water, was crying its heart out again and again. Maybe it was a lost duckling, separated from its parents, I couldn’t really see that far out well enough to be certain. But maybe it was a Neapolitan duck, lamenting its estrangement and wondering, as was I, whether this is still Italy!

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Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore

Back in the 1600s, a few successive members of the House of Borromeo, an old noble Milanese family, built summer houses on two of the small islands on southern Lake Maggiore – Isola Madre and Isola Bella. Today I spent the afternoon on Isola Bella, one of the three Borromean islands (the third, fyi, is called Isola Superiore).
Initially, I had planned to visit all of the islands, but my morning got side-tracked on the phone to Covent Garden, trying to get tickets only to have the call drop after close to two hours on hold. But, anyway, back to Isolla Bella.

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This island is small and unremarkable but for the beautiful Palazzo and the even more impressive gardens. I spent my time leisurely walking through the house, complete with a “basement” decorated to emulate coral reefs, then strolling through the majestic gardens, where, in 30 degree weather, even the white peacocks were seeking shade.

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The one thing that impressed me the most, beyond the grandeur of the house or the ostentatiousness of the gardens, was a beautiful statue of Venus portrayed asleep by a sculptor whose name, unfortunately I cannot recall. [UPDATE:the sculptor is Vincenzo Monti]

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It never ceases to amaze me how stone can be made into a fabric so sensuous and warm under the expert hand of a talented sculptor. Unlike painting, which can be retouched, sculpture is an art-form that is truly four dimensional: a spatial representation frozen in time, for a second’s mistake can ruin everything. For this reason, in my opinion, among all arts, sculpture is only akin to music, in that both capture a moment in time, freeze it, and allow this moment to continue into perpetuity and to also be experienced by others. I’m not sure I can articulate this clearly… I guess what I mean is that both music and sculpture succeed, though in very different ways, to encode, and thus stop, time.

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